|
According
to many home improvement shows and
magazines, the newest hot trend
for flooring is acid etching.
This is a process where a
special type of acid, usually
muriatic acid is applied to clean
concrete surfaces.
However, muriatic acid is
actually undiluted hydrochloric
acid, and is extremely dangerous
to use, therefore you must read
and follow all manufacturer’s
instructions carefully.
You
can purchase special stains that
are available in an array of
colors ranging from blues, green,
to reds browns and just about
every color and shade between with
many being natural shades.
However, it is important to
understand that you can purchase
the same lot number, use it on two
different concrete surfaces, and
have two different variations of
the color.
This is because the stains
will react differently to the
compounds in the concrete, which
will produce variegated,
marbleized, or stone-effects.
This uniqueness is one of
the great appeals of stained
concrete flooring, with its other
advantages being its endless
possibilities of designs, its
durability, and ability to retain
its beauty even in heavy traffic
areas.
In addition, acid etching
is very reasonable, costing
approximately $0.25 per square
foot to $1.00 per square foot,
depending on the preparation
required and the materials you
use.
The
first acid-etched concrete floor
that I installed was in my best
friend’s sunroom.
Believe me it was
remarkably easy.
The
first concrete floor that I acid
etched was a 6-inch solid concrete
slab of my friend’s 16 x 20 foot
sunroom.
The floor originally had
indoor-outdoor carpet, and she’d
had seen a do-it-yourself show and
wanted to attempt acid etching.
However, her husband did
not want us to score the concrete
with a saw to form the design into
the concrete.
Therefore, we did our
research and found that we could
us tape to form the grout lines.
IMPORTANT:
When using concentrated acid you
should always handle it with care.
You need to wear protective
clothing that includes rubber
gloves, rubber boots, and
protective eyewear.
When diluting the acid,
always add the acid to the water.
NEVER add water to the acid as this can result in an explosive
chemical reaction that can cause
you personal harm.
Once
we removed the old indoor-outdoor
carpet, we had to clean thoroughly
the concrete surface to remove all
contaminants, which may have
interfered with acid etching and
stain that we would use.
You can remove dirt, oil,
grease, and most other
petroleum-based contaminants with
a good Oil and Grease Emulsifier.
If you are etching a newly
poured concrete floor, laitance
may be present.
Laitance is a thin layer of
non-durable concrete.
After
you have cleaned, scrubbed, and
squeegeed the concrete floor,
allow the floor to dry.
Next, you need to lay down
masking tape, which will simulate
the grout lines.
You have to make sure that
the tape is firmly placed down; we
went back over the tape with a
wallpaper roller.
Once
you have applied the tape, you
want to spray on the acid wash
stain.
In the sunroom, we used
spray bottles to apply the diluted
acid wash stain.
However, on a later project
we discovered that a large garden
sprinkler-can also works nicely. Make sure that you leave the acid solution to stand on the
floor for the recommended amount
of time before you rinse, rinse,
and rinse some more.
We rinsed the surface four
times for the first coating and
six times after the second
application.
You will notice a brownish
colored residue forming during the
etching process.
This residue must be
scrubbed off.
We applied two acid wash
stain coats.
It
is very important that you
thoroughly rinse, using plenty of
clean, fresh water.
If you do not rinse well
enough you risk leaving unspent
acid salts on the surface of the
floor, which can interfere with
both the curing and adhesion of
the coating.
In addition, residual acids
can also affect the long-term
durability and performance of the
coating.
You can neutralize the acid
wash using by sprinkling baking
soda over the floor if you are
sure that you have rinsed the
floor well enough.
After the final rinse,
allow the floor to dry before
sealing the floor.
NOTE:
Some contractors will
occasionally, use mixtures that
incorporate fiberglass for added
structural strength.
When you etch concrete that
has fiberglass in it, it will have
a fuzzy appearance.
If this is the case, then
you can melt back the fiberglass
by careful using a butane torch
that has a flame spreader.
Extreme caution should be
used when melting the fiberglass.
However, if the fiberglass
is not melted flush with the
concrete surface, the fiberglass
can act as a wick and draw in
water, oil, dirt, or other
contaminants that may deteriorate
the coating.
|